vertigo, in a good way: Belogradchik

The ship entered the port of Vidin, Bulgaria around 7 am. I was up early most days of the trip out of necessity but also because I never quite shook Eastern Standard time. But it was worth to see a week of mornings just like this (we lucked into almost perfect weather for the entire trip).

sunrise over the rippling water of river, hills on the far shore, with the railing of the ship in the near distance
Photo author’s own, as are all others except where noted.

We arrived ahead of schedule so we got to wander around Vidin a bit before the day’s field trip.

statue of 3 women in draped dresses, facing outwards
Statue in Vidin city center of the three unhappily married sisters who founded Vidin (or at least founded Baba Vida fortress around which the city was built).
wooded park with open umbrellas hanging from the treetops
Umbrellas in the park in Vidin.

Then we hopped on the coach for a trip to the mountains.

Belogradchik Fortress was originally built by the Romans and passed through Ottoman and Bulgarian hands through the centuries. Given the elevation it was originally built for surveillance rather than defense, though the walls are 2 meters thick in places.

tall rock formations with brick gate built between them, brick wall in foreground
Belogradchik Fortress was built within and using the natural rock formations.
two old, grown-over holes in the ground with a metal protective gate atop them
Roman cisterns, covered for safety. The Romans covered them with vinegar-soaked sheepskins to keep the water fresh.

We had the option to stay at the bottom or hike to the top. I chose the hike, and am grateful I invested in my hiking sneakers: ugly as sin prevented me grinding my knees to sawdust.

tall staircase built into the rock, going upwards
It was a bit of a hike…
sight of mountains between two rocky outcroppings, one perilously top heavy
…but the view was worth it.

I hate heights—or at least being near the edge of potentially long drops. Guard rails don’t help as I don’t trust them to hold. Nonetheless, I took a breath and stepped up to the edge.

another curious rock outcropping with misty mountains in background, safety railing visible in foreground
See the railing? I sweat bullets to get this shot.
looking down into wooded valley filled with red tile-roofed, whitewashed houses, and a single rock formation
The city of Belogradchik from with the characteristic red-tiled roofs and whitewashed walls.

The town of Belogradchik (Belograd=”white town”; “-chik” suffix=”small”, to differentiate it from the big white town of Belgrade—a later stop on the cruise) is built within the many Belogradchik Rocks. Most are named but 1) my notes aren’t clear on the specific names, probably because 2) I never could see the Bear, or Adam and Eve, or other figures described.

This site was a bit of a workout, in a good way: I challenged my fear of heights and got some good hiking in as well. Belogradchik was both beautiful but also a warmup for the next day’s excursion to a Roman archaeological site in Serbia.

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Allison Thurman

Raised on a diet of Star Wars, Monty Python, and In Search Of, Allison Thurman has always made stuff, lately out of words. She lives in a galaxy far, far away (well, the DC metro area) with too many books and not enough swords.

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